Laying Out A Hardwood Floor


laying out a hardwood floor 1

Laying Out A Hardwood Floor

manoj joshi I have old floor there is no plywood only thin paper, I am replacing hardwood, should I have to install plywood now or I can install direct hardwood. Simon Graham Hi, I’ve got some engineered hardwood flooring to lay in a hallway, the problem I have is both walls are out of square by around 2 inches how can I get over it? Don Vandervort, HomeTips Simon, I would split the difference and adjust for the misalignment by tapering the floor boards that run along the walls on both sides. To do this, you’ll need to establish a chalk line in the center of the hallway and work both directions from that line. Teresa Galloway I am renting a Condo I feel in Love with it because of the wood floors but Oh Bot there is about a 1/2 inch space between the wall board and the floor every day I have to sweep about three times a day geting up dust what can i do. Don Vandervort, HomeTips It sounds like they didn’t replace the base molding or base shoe after installation of the floor. That gap can be covered by a 3/4-inch length of quarter-round molding. Paint or stain it first, and then tack it in place with a few short finishing nails. Cheri Plummer Should you install engineered wood flooring before the new cabinets or after? If you do it after I wonder how easy it would be to slide the refridgerator out and the dishwasher if you need to. Don Vandervort, HomeTips Where cabinets are permanent, install the flooring after cabinets to save considerable cost. If you have a freestanding fridge, however, you’ll want to run the flooring beneath it. Do be aware that the flooring’s thickness will slightly shorten the space from floor to counter, so be sure your appliances will fit! Robert jones hi, i am confused over the best method for laying engineered flooring on to an asphalt surface some say glue others say floating, as i say i’m confused as to the best method dogluver I am installing my hardwood on a stair landing, so I have a stair nose. I figured I would have to start there to make sure the boards fit correctly. Reading your instructions I would be doing it backwards, so curious how would I place the nails since I would have the indent instead of the tonque open> Thank you!!!!
laying out a hardwood floor 1

Laying Out A Hardwood Floor

1 lay out the first row Mark the walls to show the location of the floor joists. Cover the floor with 15-pound felt paper. For strength, run the strip flooring perpendicular to the joists. Start your layout at the longest uninterrupted wall that is perpendicular to the joists. At each end of the wall, measure out the width of a floorboard, plus 3/4 inches, and make a mark. Drive nails into the marks and stretch mason’s line between them to lay out the first row. 2 Pre-drill holes for nails The first and last rows of flooring have to be nailed through the face of the boards. All the other boards are nailed through the tongue only. To prevent splitting face-nailed boards, drill 1/16-inch-diameter holes for the nails, 1 inch from the grooved edge. Space the holes so the nails hit a joist or as directed by the manufacturer. 3 Fasten the first board Align the first board with the layout line, with the tongue facing into the room. Put a 3/4-inch spacer against the adjoining wall, and slide the end of the board against it. Drive 6d or 8d flooring nails through the pilot holes and then drill additional pilot holes through the tongue. Countersink all the nails. 4 Continue the first row Put the next board in place along the layout line. Seat the end tongue and groove into each other and push the two boards together for a tight seam. Nail down the board, moving down the row until you reach the side wall. Cut the last length to fit, leaving a 3/4-inch expansion gap and nail it in place. 5 Rack the flooring Spread the boards from several bundles across the room. Mix bundles and mix shades, colors and lengths, using the natural variety in the wood to create a random pattern. Lay out the boards in the order you will install them. Pros call this “racking the boards.” Flooring bundles tend to be uniform in color and if you don’t rack them, you will create noticeable light and dark areas in the floor. Make sure you finish the process by arranging the joints so they are sufficiently offset across the floor. 6 Install the next rows Put the first board of the new row in place. Cut it, if necessary, so the end is offset from the end of the board in the previous row by a minimum of 6 inches. Put the end against a 1/2-inch spacer and seat the edge snugly against its neighbor. Drill pilot holes in the tongues and then nail and countersink them through the tongues (but not the faces) to hold the boards in place. Work your way down the rows, one row at a time. 7 Continue With flooring nailer Switch to a flooring nailer as soon as you can. After installing the second or third row, you will have enough room to get a flooring nailer between the wall and the board you are placing. Position the nailer so it will drive a nail through the tongue of the board, then hit it with a mallet to shoot the nail through the tongue. Adjust the air pressure as needed so the nail countersinks into the tongue. 8 Install the remaining rows Work your way across the room, row by row, power-nailing the boards through the tongue. Leave a 3/4-inch expansion gap between the end board and the wall. Stagger the ends of the boards in adjoining rows by 6 inches and rack additional bundles as you go. 9 Straighten any bowed boards Even the best flooring comes with pieces that are not perfectly straight. Set these aside initially; if these end up as extras, you won’t have to use them. If you must use a slightly bowed piece, drive a chisel into the subfloor and pry against the edge of the bowed strip to straighten it. If the piece is badly bowed, screw a piece of scrap to the floor about 1 inch from the strip. Tap a wood wedge into the gap, as shown, to straighten out the board. 10 Framing around obstructions Often a floor will meet an obstruction such as a fireplace or counter. If so, miter boards to create a border that frames the obstruction. Position the boards so the tongue or groove mates with the rest of the floorboards. Cut off the tongue if it is on the edge that meets the obstruction. Apply the rest of the floor as you normally would, fitting the pieces into the frame as you go. 11 Cutting corners to fit Where the flooring meets a jog in the wall or a similar obstacle, cut corners to fit. Snug the piece of flooring against the obstacle and lay out the cut by marking where the edge of the obstacle meets the board. Allow for a 1/2-inch expansion gap at the end of the board and a 3/4-inch gap along the edges; make the cut with a jigsaw. 12 Face-nail the last rows As you approach the wall on the far side of the room, it becomes difficult to use the flooring nailer. Once you don’t have enough room to swing the mallet, begin drilling pilot holes for face-nailing, but nail only when you have laid down all the boards. 13 Cut the last row to fit You will probably have to cut the width of the boards in the last row to fit. Measure the space and subtract 3/4 inch for the expansion gap. Cut the boards to width on a table saw. Put the boards in place. Pry against a piece of scrap on the wall to seat the boards and close any gaps between them. Face-nail to hold the boards in place. 14 Install the trim Install the baseboard and shoe moulding to cover the expansion gap. Keep the lower edge of the baseboard even with the top of the floor and nail the baseboard into the wall. Set the quarter-round shoe moulding on a piece of paper to keep it just a hair above the floor. Nail it to the baseboard, not to the floor or subfloor. Nail threshold or transition strips in place where the edge of the floor is exposed. Flooring in a hallway should run the length of the hall regardless of joist direction. If the flooring will meet wood flooring in other rooms, install the hallway flooring first, then work your way into the adjoining rooms. To make this work, sometimes you may need to join two boards groove edge to groove edge. If so, cut a strip of wood, called a spline, that is wide enough to fit into one of the grooves and about halfway into the neighboring groove. Glue it into one of the grooved boards and nail it to the floor. Slip the groove of the neighboring board over the new splined tongue.

Laying Out A Hardwood Floor

Laying Out A Hardwood Floor
Laying Out A Hardwood Floor
Laying Out A Hardwood Floor
Laying Out A Hardwood Floor
Laying Out A Hardwood Floor

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